Pro surfer Mark Mathews wasn’t always into big wave surfing. As a kid growing up in Australia, he was scared of the ocean.
Now he charges the world’s gnarliest waves. Why? ”I fell in love with that feeling you get from being terrified but still doing it…” Nice.
This neat video was flagged up to us by Surf Europe, showing Mathews overcoming his fear once again after a near-drowning experience – and highlighting just how gnarly it is to go over the falls at a break this heavy!