21. Shane Dorian

Tim Nunn 2 comments

When Shane Dorian dropped off the tour it seemed likely he would star in some films, show up in his native Hawaii every winter and shred, but that is about it. What No one guessed was he would disappear, train and reinvent himself as arguably the greatest big wave surfer of our time. He took small wave surfing techniques and took it to big waves, charging everything from huge Teahupo’o to giant Jaws, he pushed performance levels on big waves to a point no one thought possible.

But that was not enough. Not content with towing into these waves he started pushing the barriers with what is possible paddling into giant surf. He transcended the realm from contest surfer to big wave legend, and now in his mid forties is the greatest big wave rider alive.

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