Opening a route on a mountain is just more as the final day, on which you will free the line. For sure this is the most important day, because all the effort, the invested time, the preparation and so on is coming to an end. Many things are coming together to this magical point, which you will feel on the summit during shaking hands with your friend. It was my brother Vitus, with whom I shared this moment and to whom I should speak out great thanks. He was supporting me nearly the whole time. He was hanging on the belay for hours, during which I was battling my way up, looking for climbable features and placing protection. As a synonym, the new line is named „Bruderliebe“ and I am really happy, that I got the opportunity to carve 19 pitches along this nice piece of rock and to add coincidentally another page to the climbing history of Marmolada south face.
_ Name of the route: Bruderliebe
_ Area of the route: Pilastro Dorso d’Elefante, Marmolada South Face, Belluno, Italy.
_ 19 pitches, up to the grade 8b/8b+. Total vertical gain on rock: 800 meters
_ Protections: Camalots up to #3, pitons, bolts only where necessary
_ Character: Amazing line on slightly overhanging terrain on the lower part. The upper part is wild and alpine with some loose rock on the last pitches.
_ First ascent: August 21st 2011 in 11.5 hours
_ First ascensionist: Hansjoerg Auer with his brother Vitus Auer
_ Time spent to open the route: 8 days over e period of two months for the lower section. The upper part was opened during the first free ascent.
See more : http://www.thenorthfacejournal.com/my-adventure-of-a-new-route-on-bruderliebe-marmolada-hansjorg-auer/