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Skiing In Afghanistan | Changing Landscapes

Photographer Mubaraka Mohammadi on war, leaving it all behind, and her hopes for the future of her country

In 2017 I visited Mazar-e-Sharif, Afghanistan whilst working with Skateistan, the non-profit which empowers children through skateboarding and education. It was during a more peaceful time in the country, and I felt incredibly lucky to be given the chance to visit and experience the culture and to meet the people. I was inspired by the resilience, positivity and strength of the women I met there and the girls I skated with. As humans we are all the same, but born into very different circumstances.

I met Mubaraka there, and we bonded over a shared love of sports and photography. It was January and I remember the clear crisp days, taking photos in the fresh air of the Skate School garden, and playing basketball in the sports hall at lunch, or football outside. Mubaraka had been working with Skateistan since around 2013.

“When I was in Afghanistan, I always tried to photograph people who showed the new face of Afghanistan or people who are trying to make a difference”

Originally from Daykundi in central Afghanistan, Mubaraka is part of the Hazaras ethnic group who are mostly Shia muslim. In 2019 alongside her work at Skateistan and her adventuring (more to come on this) she also started her journey as a photographer, with her beautiful shots posted up on Instagram (@mubaraka_mohammadi) for us to see. Her photography and perspective captures a side of the country you may never have seen before.

“When I was in Afghanistan, I always tried to photograph people who showed the new face of Afghanistan or people who are trying to make a difference through what they are doing,” she explains. “For example, the new generation who were trying to go forwards not backwards.”

Credit: Mubaraka Muhammadi

Voted one of the most difficult places to grow up as a girl, it is women like Mubaraka who brought so many opportunities for young girls and women in Afghanistan; not only through her work at Skateistan but her creativity as a photographer. As a Skateistan Educator, in 2020 she moved to Bamyan, the largest town in the central Afghanistan region of Hazarajatin, to help open the new Skate School, something which is now on pause (you can read more about what happened to Skateistan here).

“Everything was fine, we all lived in peace, at least in Bamyan. Although war was raging in most areas, we never imagined that the Taliban would one day take control of Afghanistan.” she says. “The children were going to school, the people were all busy with their daily chores, and as the weather was getting cold, the athletes gradually began to prepare for winter sports.”

“Everything was fine, we all lived in peace, at least in Bamyan. Although war was raging in most areas, we never imagined that the Taliban would one day take control”

In February 2021, she shared some stunning shots of the snowy mountains and skiing in Bamyan. Glossy ice blue lochs, ice skating, snow covered crags, and stark bare trees in winter landscapes. As someone living in Scotland, I could relate to these views but knowing they were in Afghanistan, captured by a local female photographer friend, made them all the more special.

“I like to photograph nature, to travel to beautiful and pristine places in the world and take photos,” she says, with the hills of Bamyan in her mind. The valley that Bamyan sits in is cradled between the parallel mountain ranges of the Hindu Kush and the Koh-i-Baba. Mountains cover ninety percent of the province, and the cold, long winter, lasting for six months brings temperatures somewhere between three and twenty degrees celsius below zero.

Credit: Mubaraka Muhammadi

During winter, these big and beautiful hills are covered in snow. While there in February 2021, Mubaraka took the chance to document the Bamyan Ski Club, the first ski school to promote skiing and peace development in the country, and the Afghan Ski Challenge 2021, a backcountry ski race which takes place every year organised by the club.

“Seeing the girls skiing made me imagine a bright future for the country. I saw in their faces the hope for a better tomorrow in Afghanistan”

Mubaraka was particularly captivated by the girls and women who were skiing or snowboarding on the hills, having never done it before herself but coming from a sports background.

“I was very interested to see how girls are skiing and snowboarding. When winter came, I went to the slope and I saw many girls skiing and snowboarding. I was very excited as it was my first time seeing these new sports live. Seeing the girls skiing made me imagine a bright future for the country. I saw in their faces the hope for a better tomorrow in Afghanistan. Their effort to learn made me want to tell a story about them to the people of the world,” she says. 

Credit: Mubaraka Muhammadi

Although Mubaraka had planned to return to the slopes to do a fuller story, her photos which she has posted on Instagram tell the story to the world and show girls participating in skiing. Bamyan was one of the safest provinces in Afghanistan, a place where girls could participate in sport safely. In May 2021, Mubaraka was part of a female team that summited Shah Foladi Peak, central Afghanistan’s highest peak at around 5,100 metres.

“The goal of this summit was to show the world that Afghan girls and women are trying to find their way and do whatever they want”

“It was the greatest experience I have ever had. Although we didn’t have all the right equipment for this summit, we did it successfully,” she tells me. “The goal of this summit was to show the world that Afghan girls and women are trying to find their way and do whatever they want and are able to do.”

This wasn’t the first peak or mountain Mubaraka had conquered, but for many in the team it was. “We were by each other’s side all the time and it was very inspiring for us that women were leading the team. I am really proud of myself and my friends,” she says. 

Credit: Mubaraka Muhammadi

After photographing winter and skiing in Bamyan in February, and then taking on a peak herself in May, Mubaraka was faced with an even bigger challenge. Over the summer, her life changed drastically when the Taliban reached the city. Everything happened all of a sudden and she had to leave Afghanistan for a safer future. For the first time in over 10 years, Skateistan closed its doors in Afghanistan. For over a decade thousands of children had benefited from the safe space the charity provided to play and learn.

“One day we will be able to see another face of Afghanistan, the real face of Afghanistan, which I am completely sure is not about war”

“It is a very hard situation for all of us.” she explains. “But besides all these hard times and difficult situations, I am still hopeful that one day the people of Afghanistan will be able to experience peace, girls will be able to go to school and everyone will be happy. I hope one day we will be able to see another face of Afghanistan, the real face of Afghanistan, which I am completely sure is not about war.”

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To see more of Mubaraka’s photos follow her on Instagram: @mubaraka_mohammadi

You can buy a print of her photography through Rise With Art: risewithart.org

Support Skateistan’s new chapter at skateistan.org

Support the DEC Afghanistan Crisis Appeal at DEC.org.uk

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