Big Wave Surfer Mark Mathews Conquers His Fear Of The Ocean

The 15-year pro nearly drowned in an accident. Now he's putting his fear behind him and tackling one of the world's gnarliest breaks

Pro surfer Mark Mathews wasn’t always into big wave surfing. As a kid growing up in Australia, he was scared of the ocean.

Now he charges the world’s gnarliest waves. Why? “I fell in love with that feeling you get from being terrified but still doing it…” Nice.

This neat video was flagged up to us by Surf Europe, showing Mathews overcoming his fear once again after a near-drowning experience – and highlighting just how gnarly it is to go over the falls at a break this heavy!


Newsletter Terms & Conditions

Please enter your email so we can keep you updated with news, features and the latest offers. If you are not interested you can unsubscribe at any time. We will never sell your data and you'll only get messages from us and our partners whose products and services we think you'll enjoy.

Read our full Privacy Policy as well as Terms & Conditions.