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Surfing

Losing At Surfing, Winning At Life: This Heartwarming Story Will Restore Your Faith In Humanity

5 time champion surfer gets a million hero points for helping paralysed man to live out his dream


Argentinian surfer Martin Passeri knows a thing or two about winning. He’s been national champion five times, won a staggering 60 national and 15 international surf events during his 20 year career. But at a recent comp, he blew all those victories out of the water by winning at life so hard that there was actually a power cut in Swansea.

While his competitors headed to the waves, Passeri stopped just short, and stood on the sand for a few moments. He stopped next to Nicolas Gallegos, a dude in a wheelchair who was paralysed from the waist down in an accident some 20 years earlier.

“It was the best wave, and the biggest triumph of my life”

The incident, that occurred when he was just 18, had cut short Gallegos’ dream of being a surfer. Touched by the fact that Nicolas was still so stoked on surfing, Passeri offered to take him out, in the middle of the competition, to catch his first wave.

Gallegos took the champ up on his offer, and the pair headed for the ocean. Martin Passeri was disqualified from the competition. He may have lost the comp, but he made another mans dreams come true. As the man himself said

The truth is that I didn’t loose. I believe that was the best wave, and the biggest triumph of my life.”

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