Most surfers will find 10ft waves gnarly enough, let alone 30+ft. But not Greg Long. The Californian big wave surfer is the only person to ever win the Quiksilver Big Wave Invitational, the Maverick’s Surf Contest and Red Bull Big Wave Africa event.
However, two years ago he nearly drowned surfing Cortes Bank. Greg was held down under a wave for so long that he passed out.
VICE spoke to the waveriding pioneer about the incident – and how it’s changed surfing for him today. Inspirational – if not slightly terrifying – stuff.