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Surfing

The 25 Most Influential Surfers of all Time

In 1940s America racial segregation was still rife and white only beaches were common meaning that any African-American wanting to learn to surf had a tough job. Nick though lived just a  block from the beach near Santa Monica and got a board and taught himself to surf in the poor waves. When he heard about the waves at Malibu 10 miles up the coast he knew he had to surf them. But the area was white only, so he would paddle 12 miles up the coast when the swell was good and ride the legendary right point without going on the beach.

This tale of triumph over adversity became legendary in the local community, and soon Malibu locals would flout the law and give him a lift to surf the waves regardless of potential prosecution. His willingness to break the law to catch the perfect wave has made him a surfing hero and installed a spirit of adventure in surfing which is still prevalent today. Sadly Nick died when he hit the pier surfing a huge swell in Malibu in 1951.

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