You know that magic board?
The one that glides through sections as dead as a dodo that has been gored by a mammoth? The ones that drives in eight foot tubes, but flies through three foot rip bowls?
The one that holds its flex, keeps its shape and stays the same colour? The one that works in Outside Ulus and your local backbeach? Well, it doesn’t exist.
“THE MORE BOARDS YOU OWN, THE CLOSER YOU GET TO THE MYTHICAL MAGIC ONE…”
Riding the right board in every surf means riding loads and loads of boards that all have a little bit of magic in them. The more boards you own and ride, the closer you get to the mythical magic one.
Ideally these boards will come from the same source. This will be a man that knows your (fluctuations) in weight, your backfoot stance and what makes you tick.
Of course, it works both ways. You should know his soft rails, his kids’ names, his beer of choice and his Christmas holiday camping spot.
You’ll get new boards and you’ll get them often. You will learn a little with each one, and sometimes go backwards to go forwards. You’ll hand back the duds, and sleep with the gems.
You and your boards will be one and the same. Every surf you have, you’ll get closer and closer to riding the right board for you. Then you will die.