A Surfer Will Go Surfing
A Surfer Will Go Surfing
On any given day, a surfer will simply pick up a surfboard and go surfing.
This surfer won’t be surfing a 100 foot wave, with or without a jetski. This surfer won’t die, he or she won’t travel to the north coast of the North Pole to do it.
This surfer won’t be competing against John John Florence or Gabriel Medina and won’t give a flying fuck what fraction of the top 150 are made up of surfers with Brazilian passport.
They will know who Kelly Slater and Dane Reynolds are, but will not think about either for one of them for one millisecond in their surf at their local beach.
Unlike Alana Blanchard, the surfer won’t Instagram or GoPro their session.
They will simply pick up a surfboard and go surfing. And that my friends, is the future of surfing.