Whenever a sport’s history is recounted it’s inevitably the most successful players who get the most attention. Think Pele in football, Jack Niklaus in golf or Roger Federer in the world of tennis.
But surfing (like other action sports) is different. Alongside the likes of 11 times world champ Kelly Slater or mid-80s machine Tom Curren, there is a special place reserved in the history books for surfers who are less successful – at least in the conventional sense.
These are the dudes who, although they were talented surfers, spent a large proportion of their time pursuing another great passion – partying. And who are all the more legendary for it.