How To Be A Slightly Less Sh*t Surfer - Mpora

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Surfing

How To Be A Slightly Less Sh*t Surfer

Drowning, beer and fighting the fear: it's all part of surfing...

Persistence is everything

  • Surfline

  • Callum Jelley

  • Photo: Surfing Sumo

  • Callum Jelley

  • Surfer Today

  • newportsurfshots.com

  • Independent.com

  • Photo: hatteraskiteboarding.org

Persistence is everything

What is it about surfing? It’s really exceptionally hard, ego crushing, scary, tiring and stressful.

Other surfers can often be dicks, so it’s even more stressful, and everyone in the water seems to be getting waves except you, including the 300lb super fat dude. It doesn’t scream “the best time ever” to me.

But here I am, driving two hours north for the third time this week, standing in the rain, battling my way into a wetsuit, to go fight my way through the white wash, to paddle my way into, most likely, no actual waves but a lot of poundings.

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