Talk about taking risks!
Meet Adam Amin, a 19-year old surfer from Devon, who decided to sneak into the Pe’ahi Challenge held at Jaws last week.
Adam snuck past security at 5:30am in the morning to manage to get to the shoreline for the contest.
It gets crazier still however…
Trying to paddle his way out, Adam was approached after a quarter of a mile by a someone on a jet ski- who turned out to be U.S. surfer Greg Long- offering him a lift.
“I saw a huge wave in the distance and I saw my opportunity to prove that I can surf Jaws so I turned around while all the others were paddling over the wave,” he told the BBC in a recent interview.
“I caught it and rode down what seemed like riding down a liquid mountain. I got to the bottom and looked up…. It was the size of two houses above me.”
“I got taken out by this white water just after riding along the face and it felt like the ocean collapsed in me. I held my breath and took the beating as long as I could and finally made it to the surface of the water.”
Returning from the big wave contest, Adam is now something of a hero to his fellow surfers back in the UK.
A fundraising page has now been set up to get Adam back to Jaws and riding as a legitimate competitor!
What a dude!…