Trying to paddle his way out, Adam was approached after a quarter of a mile by a someone on a jet ski- who turned out to be U.S. surfer Greg Long- offering him a lift.
“I saw a huge wave in the distance and I saw my opportunity to prove that I can surf Jaws so I turned around while all the others were paddling over the wave,” he told the BBC in a recent interview.
“I caught it and rode down what seemed like riding down a liquid mountain. I got to the bottom and looked up…. It was the size of two houses above me.”
“I got taken out by this white water just after riding along the face and it felt like the ocean collapsed in me. I held my breath and took the beating as long as I could and finally made it to the surface of the water.”