As a consequence, and despite the best efforts of campaign group, the Ramblers, the Cambrian Way still remains almost totally unwaymarked. What this means, is that as well as having good stamina you also need to know how to carefully navigate your way through the wilderness – through places with nicknames like ‘the Desert of Wales’.

Since stepping off the train in Conwy, I’d hiked over Snowdon and the other major peaks of Snowdonia under clear blue skies, skies so clear I could count the amount of clouds I’d seen in that week with the fingers on one hand. Each evening I’d pitch on a mountain top and watch the setting sun turn the heather clad mountains around me red, then at nightfall I’d sit and enjoy the starry skies while I sipped away at cheap whisky.

Things had been going so well that I’d naively ignored the barman at the Last Inn of Barmouth. “I wouldn’t be going anywhere near Cadair Idris tonight if I were you,” he’d warned, “nasty storm coming in.”

I find him sat by a fireplace, a man, surely not much older than me. “Is it just you by yourself?” he asks in a strange regional accent I can’t pick. After our introductions he takes me on a tour of the bothy. It’s big, well, big for a bothy, with three bedrooms, a big room with a fireplace and even a kitchen. There are only a few tiny windows and the gloomy light from outside fails to penetrate far leaving the corners of each room in darkness.

He tells me he’s been here for two days, and only been out for one quick walk before he retreated back inside. There’s no evidence to show how he’s been passing the time. “Just tending the fire and reading a little,” he tells me.

“Will you be staying the night?” he asks. I can’t explain why, but I know what answer he wants. “No I better get on,” I reply while pulling on my saturated waterproof jacket. Then, I’m back off on my way towards an invisible point in the moorland, following the needle of my compass

“Those long ridges rising out of the patchwork fields below like the backs of cresting whales”

On the evening of Day 16 of walking, I sit in my tent, pitched on a heather-coated moorland on the edge of the South Wales Valleys, and study my map for over an hour. I’ve got a decision to make: If I commit to a big day tomorrow I could reach Cardiff Castle and the end of the Cambrian Way by nightfall. But we’d need to cover at least 32 miles.

The next evening I come down from the hills, essentially for the first time during my entire journey, and hobble in the fading light along the river Taff through Bute Park. Teilo trots merrily as ever at my feet.

I pass through the park gates and stumble out into a scene that seems like complete chaos to me, even though it’s just a normal evening in Cardiff city centre. I’ve been away from crowds, noise, the rush and needless urgency long enough for it to now seem totally alien. In less than half an hour, I’m at my mum and dad’s house, still completely dazed by the transition.

Do It Yourself:

Distance: 291 miles / 468km

Total Ascent: Approx 23,800m
Estimated time: Around 20 days

Will started from the north at Conwy, the common direction, however, is from Cardiff in the south. Cardiff Castle marks one end of the trail and Conwy Castle the other, both of which can be reached by train.

If 20 days in a row isn’t feasible, consider taking on the route in sections. It’s commonly broken down into three parts:

Part 1: Cardiff to Llandovery 112 miles

Part 2: Llandovery to Dinas Mawddwy 83 miles

Part 3: Dinas Mawddwy to Cowny 112 miles

Guidebooks

Cambrian Way: The Mountain Connoisseur’s Walk is the one and only printed guide to the trail. Written by the trail’s creator, Tony Drake, and now in its 7th edition, it’s an essential purchase that shows each stage in rough sketches, gives navigational and mileage advice and lists accomodation to be found.

Accommodation

With careful planning, those walking the Cambrian Way will be able to spend each night in a bed & breakfast or bunkhouse, however many hikers will choose to spend their nights under canvas, whether that’s in the wild, in a campsite, or a bit of both

A word on safety

The Cambrian Way is often considered to be one of the UK’s most demanding long distance routes due to the nature of the terrain crossed, the high total ascent and the overall length. It requires a decent level of fitness and endurance as well as proficiency in navigation over pathless ground, so any decision to walk the whole 291-mile path should not be taken lightly.

To read the rest of our March ‘Space’ issue, click here.

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