If you are any good at another sport, say snowboarding or mountain biking or even skating, the pain of being truly shit at surfing will be very real.

It’s a hard pill to swallow. Speaking from experience, it makes you want to throw your board at the closest good surfer and go back to what you are good at.

However, once you embrace being shit and stop caring about what people might think of you, it becomes a lot more fun. You can laugh at yourself and enjoy the process of learning.

Everything is a tiny victory. Getting out through the whitewater, being in the right spot for a wave, even if you then mess up your pop and eat shit, catching a wave thats already broken far behind you. They are all victories worth cherishing.