Things I’m Glad I Didn’t Know When I Started Surfing

Near-drowning experiences, streaming noses and what's REALLY inside all that saltwater you've been swallowing...

Soon you’ll be as wise as 92-year-old surfer Doc Paskowitz here… Photo: Brewer

There are a few things I wish I did know when I started surfing. Like how to hold my breath longer, shortcuts for taking off a wet wetsuit, and the importance of knowing my limits.

But there are also some things I’m glad I didn’t know the first time I paddled into a wave.

I doubt any of them would have dissuaded me entirely from the pursuit, but at least I wouldn’t have been surprised by what I discovered…


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