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Surfing

Things I’m Glad I Didn’t Know When I Started Surfing

Near-drowning experiences, streaming noses and what's REALLY inside all that saltwater you've been swallowing...

Give me two weeks tops, and I’ll be ripping… Photo: Shutterstock

Forget all the Hollywood surf movies you’ve ever seen. You can’t learn to surf in a weekend, and you won’t be getting barrelled within a fortnight.

If you didn’t learn as a young grommet, there’s a long, steep learning curve ahead. It’s more than just training your muscles how to paddle, pop-up, and turn with speed and flow; you have to learn how to read the ocean.

Putting yourself in the right place at the right time to catch a wave is a skill that must be acquired through much time spent on the sea.

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