Forget all the Hollywood surf movies you’ve ever seen. You can’t learn to surf in a weekend, and you won’t be getting barrelled within a fortnight.
If you didn’t learn as a young grommet, there’s a long, steep learning curve ahead. It’s more than just training your muscles how to paddle, pop-up, and turn with speed and flow; you have to learn how to read the ocean.
Putting yourself in the right place at the right time to catch a wave is a skill that must be acquired through much time spent on the sea.