Misstep in sizeable, powerful surf, and you may find yourself pushed down below the surface, held under by roiling water. The wave will own you then; you’ll tumble at its mercy.
Maybe you saw the hold-down coming and had a chance to gulp air, or maybe not. But you’re still being rolled, unsure which way is up, and your body is demanding air.
“How much longer is this going to go on?” you’ll wonder, as fear takes hold.
Don’t panic. Eventually the wave will release you to find the surface, and the air will never have tasted so sweet.