Being in such close proximity to Everest at a young age – locally known as Chomolungma, meaning ‘Goddess Mother of Mountains’ in Tibetan – would shape Norgay’s path to joining the 1953 expedition to Everest.

At age 19, Norgay married a Sherpa woman, which meant that he was able to be selected as a porter for his first expedition, after two hopeful Sherpa failed their medicals – the expedition was Eric Shipton’s 1935 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition.

“Norgay was selected by Shipton… largely because of his attractive grin.”

It was said that Norgay was selected by Shipton as a totally inexperienced mountaineer because of his attractive grin – something that Norgay would soon become known for.

This would be Norgay’s first steps on Everest after looking up towards it for the majority of his life from the lower end of the Khumbu Valley.

This expedition was largely viewed as a success when it returned to Britain, with a slew of first ascents and many important areas of Everest explored. Following this expedition, Norgay would then be called upon for every subsequent British Everest expedition – something that would stand him in good stead for subsequent summit attempts.

1952 Swiss Mount Everest Expedition

A year before the successful British expedition, the Swiss Expedition came close to finally reaching the summit. This expedition took place over 1952 and utilised the work of Shipton’s 1951 expedition that managed to find a route up the Khumbu Icefall – a jagged mess of creases and precariously placed ice walls.

The Swiss expedition was led by Eduard Wyss-Dunant. Unfortunately for the British, the Nepali government had started offering permits for countries outside of Britain for the first time in 31 years – with only one permit being issued every year.

Following on from the previous highs that the British expeditions had reached, Norgay paired up with Swiss mountaineer Raymond Lambert to make a push for the summit during this expedition.

Norgay and Lambert spent an extremely cold night on the mountain, without a sleeping bag and only a block of cheese to eat (whilst melting snow from the single flame of a candle for water).

“Norgay and Lambert spent an extremely cold night on the mountain… whilst melting snow from the single flame of a candle to drink.”

When the pair woke up from this horrific night, they realised that their supplementary oxygen equipment had completely frozen. After working their way up from their high camp at 8,400 metres without the use of oxygen, sometimes crawling on all fours, the pair decided to abort their summit bid at around 8,595 metres – possibly the highest any human had reached at the time, assuming that the fateful trip of George Mallory and Andrew Irvine was unsuccessful.

This expedition was most remarkable for Norgay as for the first time, he was considered as a full member of the expedition, something he considered “The greatest honour that had ever been paid me.” Following this, Norgay would hold a close friendship with numerous members of the expedition – particularly with Lambert, the man who shared his ordeal near the summit.

Post Everest Life

On returning from the successful expedition, Norgay was regarded as a hero by many Nepalese and Indians; receiving many medals and honours from both countries.

In Britain, it took some time for Norgay to receive the same recognition of that of Hillary and Hunt – as unlike Hillary, Norgay was unable to receive a knighthood as he was a Nepali citizen. Norgay was soon gifted the George Cross for his efforts, a move seen by some as a “petty bigotry” by the British establishment.

Following Everest and the awards that went with it, Norgay went on to become the first Director of Field Training for the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, which the Indian government first established in 1954.

Norgay then went on to lead many trekking groups around Nepal and India; the most notable of these being the first American tourist trek into Bhutan, done on the permission of King Jigme Singye Wangchuck

Following this, Norgay began his own trekking company – Tenzing Norgay Adventures, which provided trekking adventures in the Himalayas. His son Jamling Tenzing Norgay would come to run this company following the passing of this father.

Norgay sadly died of a cerebral haemorrhage in Darjeeling, India, on May 9, 1986, aged 71. Norgay wished that his remains were cremated in the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling, India – an area of significant importance to him.

Famous Tenzing Norgay Quotes

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